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Yellow Ferraris and fine cigars, ceviche served oceanside—the technicolor glamour of the “Magic City” draws us in. But that doesn’t mean simple pleasures can’t be found here. Some of the best (and most affordable) food is on Calle Ocho in Little Havana, where medianoche sandwiches, fish with escabeche and fresh citrus drinks reign. And, every year, Miami Beach swells with creatives and collectors for Art Basel. By day, street life sizzles with open air cafés, coffee shops and cigar bars ready to welcome you in. Come night time, the city assumes a new identity.